Grindcore House

A coffee house in Pennsport? You don’t say! And a vegan one, to boot! Grindcore House on the corner of Greenwich and 4th streets is bare bones, but retains it’s beautiful Philly rowhouse interior. A coffee bar and pastry case is the focus of the front room along with a chest-level ledge along the front window, and in back is a sitting room with a couch and tables at the end of a narrow walkway. The back room also serves as a space for artists. Currently PHL: Printers/Haters/Lovers anoints the walls. Live performances will also take place at Grindcore House. A Barrister bookcase filled with an array of vegan/veg, anarcho, and political books enriches the minds of the younger kids hanging in house that sing along to the mix of indie, punk, hardcore, and grindcore music that plays throughout the coffee house. As an older kid, I keep waiting to hear a track from my ex’s 80’s hardcore band. Grindcore House is a drop off point for Books Through Bars , an organization that sends books to prisoners, so be sure to send them your no longer needed books. In…

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Cook the Book: Pasta with Parsley and Toasted Walnut Sauce

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From Recipes [Photograph: Caroline Russock] At first glance this Pasta with Parsley and Toasted Walnut Sauce from Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton ’s Canal House Cooking looks a lot like pesto. All of the usual suspects are accounted for: green herbs, nuts, garlic, oil, and cheese, and it’s made in a mortar and pestle. But after grinding up a batch, I was struck by how un-pesto-like this sauce was, more delicate and creamy than its basil counterpart, and somehow much more of a stick-to-your-ribs plate of pasta. By grinding walnuts with walnut oil, the sauce takes on the rich smoothness of a nut butter. Unlike a traditional basil pesto, which is all about the basil and garlic, this sauce lets the walnuts really come through both in flavor and texture. One word of advice when it comes to the seasoning of this recipe: don’t be shy with the salt. Even though a quarter cup of Parmigiano-Reggiano is incorporated into the sauce, that extra (large) pinch of salt is necessary to bring out the beautiful walnut flavors. As always …

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Cook the Book: Corn Soup with Lobster and Avocado

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From Recipes [Photograph: Caroline Russock] Lately I’ve been cooking with corn like it’s going out of style, or out of season, as the case may be. Corn salad, corn pasta, even sweet corn gelato but this corn soup with lobster and avocado from Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton ’s Canal House Cooking has to be my favorite corn recipe of the summer. Adding chunks of lobster and avocado is a surefire way to make anything even more delicious, but in this case, the corn soup is the highlight of the recipe. By steeping kernels of corn and their cobs in milk seasoned with only salt, pepper, and a touch of red pepper flakes, the soup base is bursting with bright, sweet corn flavor and the slightest bit of heat. Once it’s pureed and strained, you’re left with a supple soup that’s the essence of corn flavor. I have to admit—I drank a cup of this even before it had a chance to chill, and I would have happily eaten a bowl or two even without the lobster and avocado. But gilding the lily or not, the sweet lobster, creamy avocado, cilantro, and lime add another layer of flavors and textures to the …

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Internet Pizza Geek Icon Achieves Greatness at Varasano’s in Atlanta

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From Slice Daniel Zemans, our man in Chicago, checks in with another piece of intel from the road, this time in Atlanta. — The Mgmt. [ Photographs: Daniel Zemans ] Varasano’s Pizzeria 2171 Peachtree Road Northeast Atlanta, GA 30309 ( map ); 404-352-8216 ‎; varasanos.com Pizza Style: New York –inspired, but into the realm of artisanal Oven Type: Electric Price: Whole pies, $12 to $16 Jeff Varasano was first exposed to homemade pizza at the age of 3 when he briefly lived with his pizza-making grandmother. A few years later, the Bronx-born Varasano regularly made pizzas with his mother, starting with store-bought dough. When he moved to Manhattan in early adulthood, his apartment kitchen made pizza-making impossible, but he was exposed to a whole new world of pizzerias that he explored regularly, oftentimes stopping at Joe’s on Carmine Street, which remained his favorite for years. Within days of moving to Atlanta in 1998, the software engineer started making his own pizzas once again. On trips home, he would make sure to go to Joe’s but also started following recommendations to try out …

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Cook the Book: Roasted Chicken with Tomato Butter

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From Recipes [Photograph: Caroline Russock] I’ve never been shy about my love of anchovies. In fact, I’ve made it a personal mission to convert the anchovy-opposed into fans of the oily little fishes. My preferred method of easing newcomers into the umami-rich world of anchovies is something I like to call “the secret anchovy”—dissolving a few filets into a dish to deepen the flavor. This Roasted Chicken with Tomato Butter from Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton ’s Canal House Cooking is a perfect example of the anchovy sneak attack. The tomato butter is made by steeping sherry with anchovies and thyme, whisking in tomato paste and finishing it with plenty of butter. You are left with a complex tomatoey sauce (that’s not fishy) all thanks to those two little anchovy filets. This recipe calls for the sauce to be spooned on pieces of roasted chicken and sprinkled with parsley and rosemary. It turns out gorgeous but, honestly, this sauce would be delicious on virtually anything—eggs, roasted pork or beef, grilled fish and vegetables. As always with our Cook the Book feature, we have five (5) copies of Canal House Cooking to give away this week…

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Gluten-Free Cupcakes cookbook coming in 2011

Gluten-free cupcakes are getting a lot of attention these days, and gluten-free eating generally, with gluten-free restaurants and bakeries on the rise, as well as gluten-free cupcake offerings at bakeries. There are also several gluten-free cookbooks out and coming out, but now comes news, via Publishers Marketplace of an entire gluten-free cupcake cookbook coming out in 2011: The husband-and-wife team behind No Gluten, No Problem blog and co-authors of ARTISANAL GLUTEN-FREE COOKING, Kelli Bronski and Pete Bronski’s GLUTEN-FREE CUPCAKES, featuring dozens of flavorful and good-looking gluten-free cupcakes and other sweet but healthy indulgences, again to Matthew Lore at The Experiment, for publication in Spring 2011, by Jenni Ferrari-Adler at Brick House Literary Agency (world).

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Hot Dog of the Week: Cleveland’s Polish Boy

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“Even with all these other dogs in town, the Polish Boy is undoubtedly Cleveland’s signature dog.” [ Original artwork: Hawk Krall ] The few things I know about Cleveland come from reading Harvey Pekar’s (RIP) comics, an episode of No Reservations that also features Pekar, and watching Drew Carey at 1 a.m. before I had cable. Even so, I can tell it’s my kind of town—blue collar and chock full of history, eccentrics, and things that haven’t changed in 60 years. So it’s fitting that Cleveland’s signature dish is the Polish Boy: a grilled kielbasa on a hefty roll topped with cole slaw, a pile of french fries, and lubricated with generous amounts of barbecue and/or hot sauce. It’s a perfect representation of a city with a long history of Eastern European sausage-making and Southern-style barbecue, with a touch of Chicago thrown in for good measure (the “fries on the dog” style are reminiscent of Chicago’s minimalist ” Depression Dog ” joints). [ Photographs: Ryan Deussing ] The Polish Boy appears briefly on that same episode of No Reservations when Anthony Bourdain visits Hot Sauce Williams and tries one along with massive pulled pork sandwiches and plates of fried chicken. Iron Chef and Cleveland native Michael Symon also put…

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Exploring the Mild and the Wild Side of Crazee Burger in San Diego, CA

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From A Hamburger Today Today’s burger report comes from Erin Jackson, a food-obsessed Torontonian-turned-San Diegan who’s helping us bring more San Diego burger coverage to AHT. You may recognized her from her review of Hodad’s back in February. If you want to recommend a San Diego burger to her, leave a comment! —The Mgmt. [Photographs: Erin Jackson] Crazee Burger 4201 30th Street, San Diego CA ( map ); 619-282-6044‎; crazeeburger.com Cooking Method: Grilled Short Order: A wide variety of exotic burgers and even the simplest option (Angus beef) is perfect Want Fries With That? Don’t miss the sweet potato fries, topped with salt and Parmesan cheese blend Price: Angus burger, $4.99, or $2.99 during happy hour; sweet potato fries, $2.99; Santorini burger, $7.49 Notes: During happy hour (3-6 p.m. Mon. to Sun. and 9-11 p.m. Fri. to Sat.) a burger and a pint are $2.99 each At Crazee Burger , even the most basic burger is made of premium Angus beef—beyond that, things get more interesting. The inspired list of burgers includes buffalo, blue crab, venison, and gator. Each type of patty is topped with hand-crafted sauces like curry fruit tapenade, smoked chili sauce, or creamed horseradish sauce, to name a few. Crazee Burger doesn’t even take a breather when it…

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The Nasty Bits: Yak Testicles

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[ Photographs: Chichi Wang ] Having only had pork and lamb testicles , I’d always thought of rocky mountain oysters as parts that I like, but do not love, to eat. Tender with a texture similar to scallops, pork and lamb testicles are mildly gamey and juicy—in short, a very likeable treat, though I’d take an actual scallop over either kind of testicle. Over the weekend I feasted on a pair that caused me to rethink my position, and now I can say that I really, truly do love certain testicles. One bite of yak testicles forever changed my opinion: Creamy with a texture more like fish roe, yak rocky mountain oysters are delicious. I bought these testicles from Joy Robertshaw of Taos Mountain Yak , my local friendly yak farmer here in Northern New Mexico. Joy leases twelve hundred acres on which to graze her herd, one hundred strong. Joy started with a bull and a heifer she named Bond and Moneypenny; now, the herd grazes all year long and roams freely around her house in Taos. Joy is a woman after my own heart: It was her idea to have me try the testicles…

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Gluten-Free Tuesday: Purslane

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[ Photograph: Gluten Free Girl ] It’s amazing how many of my meals start on Twitter. Ask a simple question about food—”What are you cooking tonight?”—then sit back and prepare yourself to read a flood of answers. After hearing about heirloom tomatoes, roasted peppers, and ahi tuna, I’m hungry. Usually, that night’s dinner is inspired by a mish-mash of other people’s answers, a little of this, a little of that. Sometimes, like the day that someone spoke with happy nostalgia about her childhood macaroni and cheese, I went right out and bought cheddar and gluten-free elbow pasta to make it happen for us too. Mostly, though, it’s a mood that inspires me: charred this, seared that, a dab, a swirl. Or, just a ripe peach, juice squirting underneath my teeth to halfway across the table. Other days, I’m inspired by people’s photographs of food. Pickled watermlon rinds from the Alinea cookbook . Cherry pie with the juice oozing from the golden-brown crust. A slab of homemade bacon smoking in someone’s backyard. One look at someone else’s slow joy become food gets me in the kitchen again. Rarely, however, does a food…

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