Internet Pizza Geek Icon Achieves Greatness at Varasano’s in Atlanta

From Slice Daniel Zemans, our man in Chicago, checks in with another piece of intel from the road, this time in Atlanta. — The Mgmt. [ Photographs: Daniel Zemans ] Varasano’s Pizzeria 2171 Peachtree Road Northeast Atlanta, GA 30309 ( map ); 404-352-8216 ‎; varasanos.com Pizza Style: New York –inspired, but into the realm of artisanal Oven Type: Electric Price: Whole pies, $12 to $16 Jeff Varasano was first exposed to homemade pizza at the age of 3 when he briefly lived with his pizza-making grandmother. A few years later, the Bronx-born Varasano regularly made pizzas with his mother, starting with store-bought dough. When he moved to Manhattan in early adulthood, his apartment kitchen made pizza-making impossible, but he was exposed to a whole new world of pizzerias that he explored regularly, oftentimes stopping at Joe’s on Carmine Street, which remained his favorite for years. Within days of moving to Atlanta in 1998, the software engineer started making his own pizzas once again. On trips home, he would make sure to go to Joe’s but also started following recommendations to try out …

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Cheesecake Bars

I was in the mood for something cold and lip-smackingly sweet. Something I could sink my teeth into. Something to maintain my weight. So I made this treat with a few of my favorite things. Cheesecake. Chocolate. (Hello there my friend) and these cookies. If you ever fly Delta, then you’ve probably had them before. They’re one of the snack options. I always get excited when the cart comes down the aisle. Time for cookies. They’re so good, I’ve started buying them if I travel other airlines because it feels wrong to fly without them. They’re a crunchy, no-frills, sans chocolate type of cookie. Actually, I’m surprised I like them so much. But I do. Oh I do. So I thought they would be great to use for the cheesecake crust. Throw the cookies into a food processor and chop them up into beautiful golden brown cookie powder. About 1 1/2 cups worth. Then add 3 tablespoons of brown sugar. Don’t you love how packed brown sugar looks? Even in the size of a tablespoon. …

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Cook the Book: Georgia Peach Cobbler

From Recipes “By far the best dessert I’ve had this summer.” Photograph from totalAldo on Flickr I went a little produce-crazy while shopping over the weekend, purchasing virtually every summer fruit and vegetable my local market had to offer. When I got home and unpacked my haul the counter was filled with overflowing bowls of tomatoes, peas, and especially peaches, really good, ripe peaches. Naturally a cobbler was in order, and I was confident that I would find a perfect recipe in Mary Mac’s Tea Room . While I can’t call the cobbler I made an authentic Georgia Peach Cobbler since I’m pretty sure my peaches hailed from New Jersey, it was incredible. The peaches are peeled and sliced, and then mixed with sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, a bit of cornstarch, and then dotted with an entire stick of butter. The topping is somewhere in between a pie crust and a biscuit, made in the stand mixer and incredibly easy to roll out. While baking the peach juices mix with the butter and sugar , creating a liquid that seeps up over the crust and is delicious enough to eat by the spoonful. The cobbler, just out of the oven and served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, was by far the best dessert I’ve had this summer. …

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Aurelio’s: South Side Chain Is Tops for Sweet Sauce Crowd

From Slice Serious Eats Chicago contributor Daniel Zemans checks in with another piece of intel on the Windy City pizza scene. — The Mgmt. [Photographs: Daniel Zemans ] Aurelio’s 18162 Harwood Avenue Homewood, IL 60430 ( map ); 708-798-8050; aureliospizza.com Getting There: Metra to Homewood Pizza Style: thin-crust Oven Type: Gas The Skinny: Outstanding crust, toppings, and cheese are severely damaged by a sauce that could well be made by Willy Wonka Price: 13-inch pies, 1 topping, $15 If you know anyone who grew up in the southern suburbs of Chicago at any point in the last 50 years, the chances are good they have a deep love for pizza at Aurelio’s . Opened as a restaurant that would star beef sandwiches by 26-year-old Joe Aurelio Sr. in Homewood in 1959, the popularity of the pizza quickly redefined the place as a pizzeria. Joe Sr. died a few years ago, but Joe Jr. carries on the family business that is insanely popular among the locals. Today there are over 40 locations spread across Illinois, Indiana, Minnesota, Florida and Nevada, though the overwhelming majority are in the south suburbs of Chicago and across the border in northwestern Indiana. Only two of the locations, the restaurant in Richton Park and the massive and always packed mothership in Homewood, are owned by the Aurelio family. Aurelio’s…

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Broiled No-Knead Pizza (No-Knead Pizza 102)

From Slice VIEW SLIDESHOW: Broiled No-Knead Pizza (No-Knead Pizza 102) Head into the slideshow above for a generalized step-by-step glossing-over of the method. For the nitty-gritty down-and-dirty recipe, come along this way . With its open hole structure and classic flavor, Jim Lahey’s no-knead dough is well-suited to Neapolitan-style pizzas. Serendipitously, Neapolitan pies are the easiest type of pizza to make at home. Because these pies are so thin, it’s possible to overcome the limitations of a home oven and generate extreme heat long enough to bake the pie to blistery perfection. I find that the easiest and safest way to achieve this level of heat is Heston Blumenthal’s broiler method . Blumenthal superheats a cast iron skillet, inverts it, places the pie on the underside of the skillet, and slides it under the broiler to cook the pizza with bidirectional heat. A Few Tips The crumb shot. [Photograph: Cameron Mattis ] Stretch the dough out as thinly as possible. Even a moderately thin crust may not cook all the way through …

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The Best Way to Reheat Pizza

From Slice Leftover pizza required, awesome plate optional. [ Photographs: Robyn Lee ] Believe it or not, we end up with a fair amount of leftover pizza at the Slice offices in SE World Headquarters. While I enjoy the occasional cold slice, I usually prefer to warm up my pizza, as do most people . But how to do this? Pizzerias reheat slices all the time, but their ovens are kept at scorching temperatures all day long. Reheating pizza in the oven or in a toaster oven on the bake setting takes more time than I’m willing to wait for a quick slice , especially since you need to use moderate heat to avoid burning the outside of a slice before the inside warms through. By contrast, toasting, though fast, often fails to heat a slice all the way through, especially if it has a thick crust. I’m not even going to talk about the soggy mess that is microwaved leftover pizza. So what’s my time-tested method? Find out, after the jump. The weapons of choice: a microwave and a toaster oven. After years of extensive research, I’ve hit on a solution: microwaving and then toasting. Please, restrain …

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Delicious, C-House Leaves Me Grasping for a Definiton of Pizza

From Slice Daniel Zemans, our man in Chicago, checks in with another piece of intel on the Windy City pizza scene. Daniel also blogs about Chicagoland pizza with his friends on the Chicago Pizza Club blog. — The Mgmt. [ Photographs: Daniel Zemans ] C-House Fish & Chops 166 East Superior Street, Chicago, IL 60611 ( map ); 312-523-0923; c-houserestaurant.com/ Getting There: Red Line to Chicago Ave. Pizza Style: Flatbread Oven Type: Grill The Skinny: This ain’t pizza, but it’s delicious Price: 4-by-11-inch pies, $10 each I’ve long been amused by those who eagerly declare that certain styles of pizza are, in fact, not pizza at all. Ed Levine ’s allegation that deep dish pizza is actually a casserole is the most prominent inaccurate claim, but Ed’s so good natured about it that I’ve actually encouraged him to say it. There are plenty of others who are far more aggressive in dismissing pies that 99 percent of the pizza-eating world would call pizza without hesitation. In comments on this site, I’ve seen people dismiss a wide variety of pies as not being “real” pizza. Victims of online hostility have included all pizzas cooked in a…

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How to Make Gluten-Free Sandwich Bread

From Recipes After a temporary hiatus, “Gluten-Free Tuesdays” are back. Elizabeth Barbone of GlutenFreeBaking.com will be joining us every other week with a recipe. (Elizabeth will be alternating Tuesdays with Shauna James Ahern, who will join us again next week.) Please give Elizabeth a hearty SE welcome! —The Mgmt. [ Photographs: Elizabeth Barbone ] Gluten-free bread. I’m the first to admit it suffers from a bit of a bad reputation. The premade loaves tend to be expensive and homemade recipes often are dense and fall apart when sliced. What’s a gluten-free eater to do? Live without bread? My answer to that is an emphatic “No!” Gluten-free bread can be wonderful! For my first column on Serious Eats, I wanted to share my recipe for Easy Sandwich Bread. In this column, I’ll be baking all sorts of gluten-free goodies: cakes, cookies, pies, etc. But bread seems like the perfect place to start because sometimes in life, you just need a sandwich. Let’s get baking! Unlike wheat-based bread, which can be made with only flour, water, salt and yeast, gluten-free bread requires a few more ingredients. While I am happy there are more “exotic” gluten-free flours on the market, this recipe only uses…

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Cakespy: Banana Cream Pie in a Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookie Crust

From Recipes Jessie Oleson (aka Cakespy ) drops by every Monday to share a delicious dessert recipe. —The Mgmt. [ Original artwork and photographs: Jessie Oleson ] Please, please stop using banana bread as the final resting place for your ripe bananas. Because there’s a much sweeter option: namely, banana cream pie. In a chocolate peanut butter cookie crust. This concoction combines the classic idea of combining rich, creamy banana pudding with cookies, but in a far more decadent way. Rather than the classic Nilla wafer pairing, this pie capitalizes on the fact that both peanut butter and chocolate taste excellent with bananas—and brings all these harmonious flavors together, in one delicious place. When topped with a healthy dollop of whipped cream, this is not merely the stuff that dreams are made of, but the stuff of waking fantasy as well. Banana Cream Pie in a Chocolate Peanut Butter Cookie Crust – serves about 8 – Ingredients For the crust: 4 tablespoons butter 1 1/2 cups crushed chocolate peanut butter cookies (I used these ones —but you’d probably be fine using regular peanut butter cookies, too) For the filling: Adapted from DamGoodSweet: Desserts to Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth, New Orleans Style by David Guas and Raquel Pelzel. 5 large egg yolks 1/2 cup…

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Clifton NJ: Mario’s Restaurant, Home of the ‘Emma’-Style Pizza

From Slice Mario’s Restaurant 710 Van Houten Avenue, Clifton NJ 07013; map ); 973-777-1559 Pizza Style: “Emma”-style Oven Type: Gas The Skinny: Skinny is right! The wafer-thin crust has remained unchanged since 1945 Price: Small pie $9, large $11 Emma Barilari liked her pizza thin. That’s understating things a bit. She liked her pizza so thin that dollar bills laid flat next to a slice threatened to tower over it. So thin that light passed through it. But, at the same time, she didn’t like it to be as crisp and arid as a cracker; she wanted some pliancy and textural contrast there. This is something that takes some skill and particular set of circumstances to achieve, something that might even require a “secret family recipe.” That might have been a problem, except that she and her husband happened to own a restaurant called Mario’s. Follow @slice on Twitter

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