French in a Flash: Braised Lamb Shanks with Lemon Confit and Sweet Pearl Onions
Posted On: November 12, 2009 – 5:30 pm

From Recipes [ Photographs: Kerry Saretsky ] Previously Chouquettes » All French in a Flash recipes » I love this time of year. Not only is November home of Thanksgiving and my birthday—the two greatest dessert experiences per annum—but it’s finally, definitely, and indisputably cold. While others pull out cashmere scarves and fleece-lined gloves, I pull out the enamel stew pots. It’s braising season. These sweet-tart lamb shanks fall of the bone with the prick of an eager fork. Tender, but bright, they don’t lull the taste buds to sleep like many another seasonal stew. The meat is braised with windowpanes of garlic, dry white wine, rosemary, and lemon confit. Roasted pearl onions add a delicate, earthy sweetness that complements the deep citrus acidity of the lemon. The result is still comforting, with the braised, autumnal texture, but the flavor is pert and unexpected. French food is not just about lavender and tarragon. I learned very early from Mémé, who grew up in Casablanca, that French food is heavily influenced by the many different spots that France tried to colonize. Merguez-frites is to the streets of Paris what hot dogs are to New York. Couscous is commonplace, and …
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